11/23/2023 0 Comments 2003 mazdaspeed protege kl swap gainsI am kicking myself for not having addressed this sooner, but I suppose I'm still learning things pertaining to this swap.ĮDIT 04-15-23: I thought wrong when it came to the "load" 12V signal, in that, this signal needs to be switched. I'm going to monitor how this works while I still have the car in my possession, and see whether this leads to any issues. I gave it the same voltage and watched on my multimeter as the voltage dropped from the 15.2V right down to 14.7V. This past weekend, I looked more at the wiring diagram from the '01 626 and found that the "load" terminal should see -1V compared to battery voltage when the car is running. For the AGM battery I was running, I found that to be okay, but over the winter it kicked the bucket. Feed it a 30A source of what should be battery voltage and it's a happy camper.ĮDIT 04-09-23: I initially left the "load" terminal at the alternator unoccupied, which lead to the alternator overcharging at around 15.2V. The lucky thing in this swap, so far at least, is that there is a direct-swap Mazda 626 alternator that can be substituted in place of the Milly alt which has its own internal voltage regulator. Changes to wire terminations are noted in blue on the connector sheet. This has been updated 3-30-2020 with digitised pinout diagram. The injectors are on the same circuit as what the stock Pro5 injectors are on - (FB-03 'M') These could likely have been added another way, but this was how I saw fit to add this circuit and retain the amperage protection that's called for.Īs it stands, the ECU is now on its own circuit (FB-03 'S') and the solenoids are all on (FB-03 'O') as that's what made the most sense to me. They are 12V+ constant for the ECU, and 12V+ switched, non-dying through starting for the distributor. Two circuits were added to the JB inside the vehicle, those are highlighted on the first page of the wiring diagram. The injectors were easy, the rest should have been too if it wasn't for me forgetting things along the way (EGR Boost solenoid (A.K.A. I took it upon myself to try and breakout the systems to use the Pro5 circuits available. The stock Milly wiring has the ECU and solenoids on the same 12v+ wire, which I was less than thrilled about. This is/should be roughly what the completed system looks like. ABS system removed too (we don't need no stinkin' ABS) Downstream O2 sensors and EGR system (vent, vacuum, and position) deleted. Transmission connector entirely deleted from ECU. The exception to this is that the VSS is incorrectly pinned to the FB-03 plug where the working solution is to pin it to the X-06 plug.Īll that was pared back from the KLP2 ECU. As of today (3-6-2020) I have what I believe to be an accurate pinout diagram of a system that will work fine on this particular car. That meant sitting down and grabbing the wiring diagrams to sort out what wires go where. My goal was to retain OBD2 functionality, mainly because I'm a pleb and didn't want to have to worry about trying to do hokey diagnosing of any issues that may arise. Now that the engine mechanical is out of the way I should get to the crux of the swap: wiring. Took me two months to get to this point, engine reassembled and waiting for wiring The head stampings suggest this is a KL-DE and not the super amazeballs KL-ZE that I wouldn't mind having one day. I also did a super mild port match because the Milly got a square runner intake mated to oval port heads. Knife-edged intake, left the throttle plate alone. Ghetto compression tool courtesy of PVC pipe was created to get the retainers back together I took them apart and changed out the valve stem seals. Jimmy kindly offered to help me make such a silly decision by hauling the mill with his truck New timing components/head gaskets/head bolts/water pump/oil pump were thrown on, as well as an oil pickup and pan from a Probe GT (because it turns out the Millennia got a different style oil pan due to the way the engine mounted, and of course a different pickup was added as a result. Like a complete and utter nonse, I didn't bother checking compression, mostly due to the lack of having a starter/ manual trans bellhousing to crank the motor over. Got the engine from a forum member back in August 2017 and delved into refreshing the motor. Putting a '00 Milly motor into a '02 Pro5, non-ABS, manual.
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